Gorge On Classic Indian & Sri Lankan Cuisine Refined With A Modern Twist At This KL Eatery
Delectable from start to finish.
By Wayne Garreth — 16 Dec 2022, 04:43 PM
Smacked in the heart of KLCC, one contemporary eatery is taking on the monumental task of refining the hearty aspects that make Indian cuisine so good
Finding a solid centrepoint where tradition and finery lie, Nadodi is one of the hottest fine dining spots to graze the conversations of foodies in KL.
And while their reputation has certainly garnered a fair share of recognition in years past, our recent trip to this snazzy eatery saw us experiencing how bold their flavours truly are.
As we stepped into the locale, we were immediately transfixed by the elegance of the surroundings. With glistening marble floors and demure shades of nudes and blacks throughout the interior, adding a hue of calmness to our surroundings, we could hardly wait to dig into our feast that celebrates a cuisine enriched in culture.
Translating to mean 'nomad' in the Malayalam and Tamil language, Nadodi's ultimate goal is simple: to lead customers down a trail of culinary revolution by taking them through familiar South Indian and Sri Lankan flavours, transforming these plates with modern techniques and thoughtful creativity.
Though it was hardly a challenge to be mesmerised by the eloquent setting, it was time to decide if the dishes matched the high expectations they'd undeniably set for themselves.
Opting for a nine-course spread referred to as The Magnolia Menu (RM690++), we knew we were in for a treat that would sweep our palettes away
Prior to beginning our tasting, we were presented with Nadodi's speciality Rasam (RM65++), which consisted of a duo-layered concoction of vodka, spice distillate, and warm lather. A savoury aperitif to kickstart our review, this signature served to tantalise our taste buds and cleanse us from the depths of our stomachs before our serving.
Throughout the tasting, we were also accompanied with the Root Trail (RM55++) cocktail, which primarily consisted of gin, passion fruit, and ginger. Its low alcohol content as a liquid degustation made the cocktail a delightful companion for our starter items.
The first item of our menu can easily be described as a trio from heaven. Mentioned simply as the Snack Me piece, this vessel was divided into three sub-dishes; Pesarattu Masala Thosai, Corn Fritters Pie Tee, and Chicken Sunty.
The Pesarattu Masala Thosai consisted of a mash potato filling with a topping of peanut chutney, all wrapped in a blanket of green lentils that enthralled as a mini cone. One morsel of this dish sent notes of sweet and savoury down our throats, with a tinge of spice for a little kick.
Taking in every crunch, this piece amalgamated all the elements of crisp, zest, and tartness without overpowering in strong flavours.
The Corn Fritters Pie Tee oscillated between the textures of the crunchy shell exterior and the smooth yoghurt mousse that was whipped to perfection, boosting elements of the pomegranate caviar garnished on top for a moist and delectable finish.
The winning item of the trio, however, would undeniably go to the Chicken Sunty, that practically melted in our mouths from the first bite. Topped with a bead of coriander chutney, the bits of minced chicken coated in rice batter was seasoned to absolute perfection.
Moving on to the second course, this subsequent item was an inseparable twin pairing referred to as the Surprising Duo.
The first item was the Beetroot Opaline, which consisted of a hard-shell beetroot exterior reminiscent of a taco. The interior of the shell embodied shredded truffles from Italy, Sri Lankan onion sambal, and a generous sprinkle of ricotta cheese. While the item had a rather sticky exterior, the balance within the dish boasted bold flavours from the sweetness of the shell and a burst of gooey goodness in the sambal and ricotta.
Its counterpart, the Green Pea and Moringa Sothi Tart, was an absolute treat worth every bite. Made from murukku dough, the firm shell encapsulated a generous gallop of green moringa sothi espuma, which acted as the central element for the bit. Admittedly denser than the taco, this item was a creamy delight.
Sweeping us away so far, the next ensemble of dishes centred around highlighting the inherent flavours of wondrous crustaceans
The third course was titled Squid Game — though it was nothing like one would expect. Presented on a Japanese hibachi grill, we were given a gleaming cut of grilled Hotaru ika, imported directly from Japan.
Accompanying the squid was a bowl of red rice bisi bele bath, also known as South Indian sambar rice. With a side of cumin and carrot gel, as well as slices of koppara and cucumelon, this dish was easily one of the most beautiful in presentation.
Soft and delicate, our Hotaru ika was grilled to perfection, with just the right amount of chew to its texture. A demure hint of spice emanated from its combination with the red rice bisi bele, making it similar to the consistency of a Spanish paella, though the flavour profile stayed true to South Indian cuisine.
No other dish looked as posh as I Am So Prawny. Positioned laterally on the left side of our plates was a voluminous freshwater prawn that was homegrown in Sabah, garnished with a liberal quantity of Kaluga caviar. Directly beside the crustacean was a puddle of sweet and sour espuma, with tiny globules of passion fruit and ginger flower gel.
A diverse piece, the pairing of a cut of prawn with each sauce added different flavour profiles to the dish; the espuma added a more tangy undertone when complementing the springy shrimp, while the passion fruit and ginger flower gels transformed this savoury dish into something sweet with Japanese cuisine undertones.
The bar was set pretty high by the time Cut The Crab was served to us — and it quickly met expectations. Our salver was easily broken down into three layers: bits of tempered crab meat from Indonesia on top, fermented steamed rice cake laid in the middle, and a base of lobster claw salad.
Filling our bowls like water from a dam, our chefs proceeded to pour in the final touch of flower crab curry, before adding minute dots of moringa oil. Pulpy, yet satisfying, this dish was surprisingly one that would resemble a curry that mum used to make — if mum cooked in a fine dining eatery. Volumes of spice spoke from its depths, making the item comforting despite its classy exposition.
Ending these three courses, we were presented with the White Revolution (RM60++) cocktail, made up of yoghurt-flavoured clarified vodka with cumin and carom seeds. Accompanying the drink was a spoon of egg white and egg yolk, dusted with dehydrated yoghurt to resemble that of a crostini.
Unassuming yet delightful, this mixture hit just the spot for us, a great guzzle that somewhat acted as an interlude for the seafood-heavy items we consumed along the way.
Diving into the proclaimed heavy hitters of the nine, the next three items served powerful aromas with unbelievable flavour extractions
A slight variant from their menu display, the sixth item, Fish-Full Thinking, had a glowing piece of Japanese shima aji accompanied by a gooseberry and tomato-filled tortellini on the side, accessorised with heirloom tomato salad, spicy ketchup, and puffed quinoa. Bracing ourselves, the chef proceeded to pour in Nadodi's signature rasam and dashi, prefixing our bowls with a translucent copper broth.
Fusing the best parts of Japanese and Indian cookery, the sharp notes from the dashi immersed the tortellini and shima aji to produce rich and robust flavours.
Aged for 48 hours, the koji duck in the eight lineup, Quack Quack!, resembled something straight out of Gordon Ramsay's kitchen. Served with duck from Bidur and topped with a sesame seed glaze, the duck also came with a side of a spear of asparagus and tapioca mash.
Gamey and tender, this luscious cut was supple without compromising its inherent flavours broadened by the aged cooking technique. Balancing the item with just enough meat, fibre, and starch, our serving had just the right quantity of each serving to be a standout, sturdy dish.
The amount of care and effort that went into the Seductive Lamb can't be understated. The sous-vide of a chunk of pyrenees lamb rubbed in Nadodi's own spices produced a gastronomical creation that was fitting to be Michelin Star worthy. Going hand in hand with a cettinad pepper sauce, this pairing was a match made in heaven.
Juicy, succulent, warm, and luscious — just a few words to describe the cut of lamb on our plates. While the other elements of caramalised onion, root vegetables, and scallion rolls were delightful additions to the plate, the encapsulation of this entire dish shot its way to the top of our list, easily claiming best dish of the night, and a top-tier assembly by Nadodi.
As we neared the end of our session, we were a little bummed that all the spectacular savoury dishes had come and gone so quickly, though the dessert proved to be a quick mood booster
The ninth and final course on the menu was appropriately called Murukku & Chai. Amplified in spades, the plate consisted of a murukku mousse, chai ice cream with carom seed butter cookies, and ginger ganache.
An impeccable attempt at modernising a humble classic, this dessert was nothing less than scrumptious from start to finish. Creamy, yet sturdy, the chai ice cream was impeccably rich, while the murukku mousse added a soft and fluffy whip, an airy final balance to wrap up the whole meal.
The item was also followed with our final drink for the night, the Sour Tickle (RM55++), which infused whiskey, tamarind, and earl grey tea, and a side of tamarind butterflies to bite on.
All in all, the ultimate goal of Nadodi to enrich our taste buds with traditional flavours in a modern concept was met and surpassed by leaps and bounds
The standard of the flavours at Nadodi was only a clear reflection of the effort and contribution by the excellently trained chefs that have spent an immense amount of effort pouring out their creativity onto our plates.
While our vivid journey led us down a path that was greater than expected, future customers will have a delightful range of other menus that are eagerly worth the try, including their vegetarian slate known as The Marigold (RM590++), Nadodi's 'surprise experience' in The Lotus (RM790++), and The Lotus with Royal Salute Pairing (RM990++).
Growing to become one of the most popular and sought after eateries in KLCC, their demanding clientele and surging recognition in the fine dining industry is only the beginning for Nadodi's nomadic journey.
