Fired On Day 1, Now A Restaurant Pioneer: How This M'sian Is Leading Borneo's Food Scene
Linn Yong, a self-taught chef who learned to cook through YouTube, now owns three restaurants in Sabah.
By Tamara Jayne — 26 Sep 2024, 03:51 PM
In an industry traditionally dominated by men, Linn Yong has shattered barriers, proving that success is defined by passion and talent, regardless of one's background
Her journey from product designer to culinary trailblazer began 15 years ago when she took the leap to save her family's Nak Hotel in Sandakan, trading her design tools for kitchen utensils.
Growing up in Johor Bahru, Linn used to travel daily across the causeway for school.
Raised in a single-parent household, she worked part-time jobs to cover her tuition fees and living expenses in Singapore.
"After being fired on my first day as a banquet waitress at Four Seasons Singapore, I walked into a Starbucks nearby to ask for a job. I fell in love with the F&B industry through the amazing colleagues and customers I met. The interaction with people from all walks of life hooked me," she shared.
Though she considered culinary school, Linn couldn't afford the fees or the transition from a government-funded polytechnic to a private institution.
By 17, she had already worked in restaurants, bars, cruise ships, and hotel banquets.
"I soon realised it was a male-centric environment, with most leadership roles filled by men. Back then, professional kitchens were 99.9% male. For survival, I stayed in design, but I always dreamed of having my own restaurant one day," she explained.
Despite no formal culinary training, Linn turned to YouTube to hone her cooking skills
Today, she's the Chef de Patron of three popular Sabah restaurants: Ba Lin Roofgarden Bar & Restaurant, San Da Gen Kopitiam, and Limau & Linen.
"Before YouTube, I watched a lot of TV as a teenager. The first few seasons of Jamie Oliver's The Naked Chef fascinated me with his unscripted, go-with-the-flow style. He made everyone believe that cooking could come naturally and that, with very few ingredients, you could express love and care through a well-made meal.
"At the core of our cooking principles, I strive for simplicity — no more, no less than what is needed. That said, achieving this still requires a lot of discipline," she shared in an interview with SAYS.
Linn's path was not without struggles. In the early 2000s, her husband, Anton, decided to return to Sandakan to take over the family hotel built by his grandfather in the 1960s.
"The hotel was in terrible shape, situated in a seedy part of town, but we decided that if all else failed, we would at least have created a safe haven for ourselves. That's how Ba Lin Roofgarden was born. I was simply tasked with making it work!"
After facing issues with two problematic chefs, Linn took matters into her own hands, starting with basic barbecue chicken kebabs and less-than-perfect pizzas.
"And the rest, as they say, is history," she remarked.
What distinguishes Linn from other chefs is her dedication to uplifting her team. She has transformed local village cooks into professionals, serving everyone from local dignitaries to global icons like Michelle Yeoh.
"In Sandakan, our head chef Ellyas at Ba Lin Roofgarden has been with us for 14 years, starting as a warung wok cook. He was one of the early pioneers who watched and explored YouTube with me for ideas, and we learned together through trial and error," she shared.
During the pandemic, Linn's team helped a fishing community in Kampung Mumiang by setting up a production kitchen to create value-added products, although they eventually returned to selling seafood directly.
Linn fondly recalled serving Michelle Yeoh on two occasions.
"I received a call from a tour guide letting me know that Yeoh was in town and heading to Ba Lin with a film crew. I had just started taking over the kitchen, with very little knowledge or experience.
"We made a simple Spice Roasted Pumpkin Caesar Salad at her request. Since it was a quiet evening, they graciously invited me to join them for a casual drink! She even adopted a little tree seedling from us during our Earth Day tree-planting initiative.
"The second time was a few years later when she returned to shoot a documentary. I proudly reported on the health of her tree and served her another basic kampung dish," she added.
Each of Linn's restaurants has its own identity
At Limau & Linen in Kota Kinabalu, she emphasises sustainability by sourcing edible flowers and herbs from local women in Mount Kinabalu.
They even created the 'Garden of Eden' dish to raise awareness about sustainable food choices while supporting these households.
Ba Lin Roofgarden, a comfort food hub celebrating 15 years, will soon relaunch a menu inspired by Chef Ellyas' Orang Sungai heritage.
San Da Gen Kopitiam, operating for seven years, combines traditional and modern Malaysian fare. It also revived the historic Cow Pad Tart, a Sandakan specialty dating back to the 1950s.
"Seeing that it was growing obsolete, we wanted to revive what is unique to Sandakan," Linn noted.
"At Ba Lin, we've weathered challenges ranging from the Lahad Datu Incursions to a terrorist kidnapping that occurred just 10 minutes away. We've managed to keep most of our team intact through the pandemic, and it's been rewarding to see many of them step into larger leadership roles.
"They've even played a crucial part in supporting the opening of Limau & Linen in KK. Watching them grow as I age brings me immense joy and satisfaction. Together, we've created three distinct, unique restaurants that bring people from all walks of life together, centred around fostering a sense of community," the 40-year-old shared.
Today, Linn has made Sabah her home and is committed to mentoring the next generation of chefs and fostering a clientele that values local produce
"Together, we are finding ways to break through the culinary industry, making our mark and gaining international recognition for our cuisine," she shared.
Her advice to young chefs who want to make a meaningful impact in their careers is this:
"It's called a service industry for a reason. Lay your egos down, but take pride in what you do. Our job is to bring people together — it's tough, but also a noble profession. Your parents will be proud of you one day — maybe not tomorrow, but eventually."
