26-Year-Old Sabahan Opens Steakhouse Serving Open-Fire Steaks In Kota Kinabalu
From a 'satay boy' to a successful restaurant owner, Emerson is playing a significant role in shaping Sabah's culinary landscape.
By Tamara Jayne — 05 Sep 2024, 04:03 PM
Emerson Teoh, the 26-year-old chef and restaurateur behind Hearth in Kota Kinabalu, has quickly made his mark on Sabah's dining scene
After gaining valuable experience in Sydney's vibrant food industry, Emerson made the bold decision to return to Sabah to pursue his dream of opening a restaurant that celebrates local ingredients and elevates the art of open-fire cuisine.
"My time in Sydney was where I gained most of my experience," Emerson recalls. Spending four to five years working and studying there, he found Sydney to be a melting pot of culinary creativity, which profoundly influenced his approach to food.
"The dining scene there is one of the best in the world," he says, highlighting how the bustling city and its love for innovative cuisine shaped his vision for Hearth.
Emerson's passion for open-fire cooking began with his first job at Hyatt Regency in Kota Kinabalu, where he worked as the 'satay boy' on a charcoal grill
But the idea to bring the art of open-fire cooking to Kota Kinabalu was sparked by a pivotal dining experience at Firedoor Sydney in 2019.
"The flavours blew my mind," he remembers, adding that food cooked over fire offers unique, irreplaceable tastes that can't be replicated on a gas or electric stove. This unforgettable experience drove him to introduce the same concept back home.
Returning to Sabah to open a restaurant wasn't just a career choice for Emerson — it was personal
Born and raised in Sabah, he always felt a responsibility to contribute to the development of his home state.
At 26, however, launching Hearth posed numerous challenges. "Understanding the consumer market here was tricky," Emerson admits. What worked in Sydney didn't necessarily translate to the local palate, and he faced a steep learning curve.
In addition, being a young entrepreneur meant confronting a lot of opinions and criticism. "At the beginning, I was defensive," he shares. But over time, Emerson learned to embrace feedback, allowing it to shape his restaurant and refine the experience he offers.
Eventually, Emerson pivoted.
"We realised we were selling a lot of steaks," he says, which led to a major shift in July 2024 when Hearth officially became a steakhouse.
The transition has been a success, while still staying true to its roots in open-fire cuisine.
A key aspect of Hearth's identity is Emerson's commitment to using local produce.
"It's important for restaurants and communities to support local products because if we don't, who will?" he says.
Emerson proudly showcases Sabahan ingredients, including steaks sourced from Sawit Kinabalu in Tawau.
His philosophy extends beyond using local ingredients — he actively engages with suppliers to help them improve their products and ensure that locally sourced items remain integral to the menu.
Looking ahead, Emerson has big dreams for Hearth and beyond. "There are definitely plans to expand, including in Kuala Lumpur," he reveals.
However, he remains patient, waiting for the right opportunity rather than rushing into it.
His team is also exploring new ideas, like expanding into smoked products, including house-smoked duck and beef bacon.
Reflecting on his journey, Emerson offers sage advice to aspiring entrepreneurs: be open-minded and embrace feedback
He warns against dismissing criticism, noting that it played a crucial role in his growth.
"You can't do this journey alone," he emphasises, encouraging entrepreneurs to value the support of family, friends, and team members.
Emerson's journey from a passion for open-fire cooking to becoming a successful restaurateur shows that age doesn't define success. With courage, hard work, and dedication, his story proves the importance of chasing your dreams and making a difference in the community.
